• New! Classic and Modern Writings on Fashion
The serious analysis of clothing and fashion has a long history. The Classic and Modern Writings on Fashion area of the Berg Fashion Library contains seminal writings on fashion, including classic and contemporary essays and primary sources. As a whole they form the foundations of fashion theory and methodology, and are essential for scholarly research in fashion, dress and costume.
Essays included in Classic and Modern Writings on Fashion previously appeared in Fashion: Critical and Primary Sources (2009), edited by Peter McNeil. This 4 volume set won the Art Association of Australia and New Zealand prize for Best Edited Book in 2010.
There are 67 Classics in the Berg Fashion Library:
1 Johan Huizinga Art and Life; The Aesthetic Sentiment 1924
2 Umberto Eco The Medieval Aesthetic Sensibility 1986
3 Jacob Burckhardt Society and Festivals 1878
4 Anne F. Sutton Order and Fashion in Clothes: The King, His Household and the City of London at the end of the Fifteenth Century 1991
5 Timothy Brook Summer: The Last Century 1550-1644 [abridged] 1998
6 Mario Perniola Between Clothing and Nudity 1989
7 Georges Vigarello The Upward Training of the Body from the Age of Chivalry to Courtly Civility 1989
8 Will Fisher The Renaissance Beard: Masculinity in Early Modern England 2001
9 Stella Mary Newton Venice and the Dress of Foreigners 1988
10 Kay Staniland Clothing Provision and the Great Wardrobe in the Mid-Thirteenth Century 1991
11 Ann Rosalind Jones and Peter Stallybrass The Currency of Clothing 2000
12 Carole Collier Frick Gendered Space in Renaissance Florence: Theorizing Public and Private in the ‘Rag Trade 2005
13 N.B. Harte The Economics of Clothing in the Late Seventeenth Century 1991
14 Baldesar Castiglione Looks and Appearance 1995
15 Maria Bogucka Gesture, Ritual and Social Order in Sixteenth to Eighteenth-Century Poland 1991
16 Elizabeth Currie Prescribing Literature: Dress, Politics and Gender in Sixteenth-Century Italian Conduct Literature 2000
17 Stephen Orgel Masculine Apparel 1996
18 Sue Vincent To Fashion a Self: Dressing in Seventeenth-Century England 1999
19 John T. Carpenter ‘Twisted’ Poses. The Kabuku Aesthetic in Early Edo Genre Painting 2002
20 Werner Sombart The Cavaliers and the Parvenus as Imitators of the Court 1967
21 The Earl of Chesterfield Lord Chesterfield's Letters to his Son 1750-1751
22 Terry Castle Eros and Liberty at the English Masquerade 1710-1790
23 Daniel Roche Popular Dress 1987
24 Ewa Lajer-Burcharth Fleshing out the Revolution 1999
25 Lorna Weatherill Consumer Behaviour, Textiles and Dress in the Late Seventeenth and Early Eighteenth Centuries 1991
26 John E. Wills, Jr European Consumption and Asian Production in the Seventeenth and Eighteenth Centuries 1993
27 Beverly Lemire Developing Consumerism and the Ready-made Clothing Trade in Britain, 1750-1800 1984
28 John Styles Involuntary Consumers? Servants and their Clothes in Eighteenth-Century England 2002
29 Rhonda K. Garelick The Treatises of Dandyism 1998
30 Elizabeth Wilson The Invisible Flâneur 1992
31 Christopher Breward The Actress: Covent Garden and The Strand 1880-1914 2004
32 Ulrich Lehmann Tigersprung: Fashioning History 1999
33 Mariana Valverde The Love of Finery: Fashion and the Fallen Woman in Nineteenth-Century Social Discourse 1989
34 Helene E. Roberts The Exquisite Slave: The Role of Clothes in the Making of the Victorian Woman 1977
35 David Kunzle Dress Reform as Antifeminism: A Response to Helen E. Roberts's “The Exquisite Slave: The Role of Clothes in the Making of the Victorian Woman” 1977
36 Helene E. Roberts Reply to David Kunzle’s “Dress Reform as Antifeminism: A Response to Helen E. Roberts's ‘The Exquisite Slave’ “ 1977
37 Marguerite de Ponty (Mallarmé) Fashion – Jewellery 2004
38 Marguerite de Ponty (Mallarmé) Fashion 2004
39 Michelle Maskiell Consuming Kashmir: Shawls and Empires, 1500-2000 2002
40 David Brett The Management of Colour: The Kashmir Shawl in a Nineteenth-Century Debate 1988
41 Michael Zakim Sartorial Ideologies: from Homespun to Ready-Made 2001
42 Sarah Levitt Cheap Mass-Produced Men’s Clothing in the Nineteenth and Early Twentieth Centuries 1991
43 Philippe Perrot Invisible Clothing 1994
44 Lou Taylor Wool Cloth and Gender: the use of Woollen Cloth in Women’s Dress in Britain, 1865-85 1999
45 Marcia Pointon Materializing Mourning: Hair Jewellery and the Body 1999
46 Christopher Breward Femininity and Consumption: The Problem of the Late Nineteenth-Century Fashion Journal 1994
47 Margaret Maynard “A Dream of Fair Women”: Revival Dress and the Formation of Late Victorian Images of Femininity 1989
48 Valerie Steele Femme Fatale: Fashion and Visual Culture in Fin-de-siècle Paris 2004
49 Margot C. Finn Sex and the City: Metropolitan Modernities in English History 2001
50 Thorstein Veblen Dress as an Expression of the Pecuniary Culture 1925
51 Georg Simmel The Philosophy of Fashion; Adornment 1997
52 Pierre Clerget The Economic and Social Role of Fashion 1913
53 Gerald Heard The Cerementing [sic] of the Gentleman 1924
54 J.C Flügel The Predominance of Male Homosociality… The Cause of this Predominance 1934
55 Eric Gill Epilogue on Trousers 1931
56 Paul M. Gregory An Economic Interpretation of Women’s Fashions 1947
57 Murray Wax Themes in Cosmetics and Grooming 1957
58 Herbert Blumer Fashion: From Class Differentiation to Collective Selection 1969
59 Fred D. Reynolds and William R. Darden Why the Midi Failed 1972
60 Pierre Bourdieu The Production of Belief: Contribution to an Economy of Symbolic Goods 1980
61 Maureen Turim Fashion Shapes: Film, the Fashion Industry and the Image of Woman 1983
62 Karen Tranberg Hansen Other People’s Clothes? The International Secondhand Clothing Trade and Dress Practices in Zambia 2000
63 Caroline Evans The Golden Dustman: A Critical Evaluation of the Work of Martin Margiela and a Review of Martin Margiela: Exhibition 1998
64 Angela McRobbie Art, Fashion and Music in the Culture Society 1999
65 Rebecca Arnold Vionnet & Classicism 2001
66 Nancy Troy Paul Poiret’s Minaret Style: Originality, Reproduction and Art in Fashion 2002
67 Elizabeth Wilson Magic Fashion 2004
